Adios, Ecuador... 4 Meses Increíbles. Reflección Final.

As I sit here reminiscing about the past four months I cannot fathom the idea that it has all finally come to an end. I can remember August like it was yesterday… the anxiety and doubt about whether or not I wanted to actually take my flight, my fear about the language barrier and portraying my personality while speaking Spanish, how absolutely mortified I was at the thought of living with a host family. Everything was new, everything was exciting, and everything was strange. However, with the passing of time all the oddities in Quito and, Ecuador as a whole, for that matter, have become part of my daily routine, part of my identity here in South America. Most of the BC Gringos agree that it is the little things that made this experience so unique, that make South America so different than anywhere else… those little things that we will be absolutely shocked when we don’t encounter them back home, in the States. To give you a better understanding, the BC Gringos compiled a short list of the things that make South America so different from culture in the US. Things that, like I said, both amazed and frustrated us in August but have grown to be such an integral part of life as a BC Gringo.

1) Food is served when each plate is ready, not all together. Don’t try to be polite by waiting because it could be over ten minutes.

2) People in Ecuador like to honk approximately every 5 seconds… maybe just to let us know that they are driving?

3) IF you plan on singing karaoke, don’t stand up. Ecuadorians sing from their chairs and kind of “bop” up and down with the beat.

4) Public waiting lines do not exist… it’s a battle of the fittest and no, it is not uncommon to have an 80 year old lady as your opponent.

5) Don’t think that your advanced Spanish skills will be praised, even when you form perfect grammatical sentences, Ecuas will often pretend like you are speaking Chinese and will belittle you by responding in English.

6) When using public transportation, don’t give more than the quarter you owe. If you so dare to give a dollar, expect some change sequence like this: five dimes, three nickels, and ten pennies. This is not a joke.

7) Every Sacajawea dollar coin in existence can be found in South America. If you, by chance, come across an actual dollar bill, it’s like Christmas come early.

8) The meat found in soup is not meat, it is a dirty looking animal bone with some fat and what looks like a tiny portion of chewed up flesh. Steer Clear!

9) Whether it is a taxi ride, a sweater, a sandwich, or well, basically anything else in the country, you can negotiate the price.

10) While traffic lights and signs do exist, they are simply there as decoration.

11) Many Ecuadorians are very theatrical which makes it appear like every time they talk they are delivering their final Shakespearean monologue or have just been cast in a dramatic telenovela.

12) In Quito, it is uncommon to not see a street performer during a red light. Preferred acts include juggling, fire breathing, and stilt walking.

13) The other half of people who will ask you for money at a red light appear to have not showered for 4 years, are blind, or missing limbs. Sad but true.

14) Pedestrians NEVER have the right of way. NEVER.

15) On the coast of Ecuador a large percentage of the population is comprised of American Hippie stoners who move to the beaches of Ecuador to sell jewelry and empanadas… this is strange to me when I consider the thousands of Hispanics who attempt to enter the US every year for job opportunities.

16) When shopping, NEVER show too much interest in an item if you don’t want to be harassed into buying it.

17) You can buy one pill at a pharmacy, 1 cigarette, 1 piece of gum, or 1 beer can from a corner store. Just one.

18) Milk is sometimes served out of plastic bags… Yuck.

19) Ecuadorians never learned of the invention of seran wrap. In fact, all of their leftovers are left uncovered in the fridge.

20) When you make a purchase it is common for the store to ask for your phone number… this still confuses me.

21) Men on the coast roll their shirts up exposing the majority of their fat bellies.

22) If you are on a longer bus trip and hope to watch a movie, it will ten times out of ten be a violent movie with blood and murder. This is a correlation that I have yet to comprehend.

23) On public transportation there will almost always be a freelancer selling candy, jewelry, CDs, etc. They will market their product as if it was gold.

24) You can illegally enter a bordering South American country by paying off border patrol. I include this because it worked in both Bolivia and Perú. Corruption my friends.

25) Drinks are always served with or after the meals, not before like they are back home.

Perhaps one of my biggest fears about returning home, even though it will only be for a month, more or less, is facing that moment when friends and family ask me “How was Ecuador”. How do I even respond to that without breaking into an hour long rant about the incredible adventures I was a part of this semester. “Good” would definitely not suffice, nor would “Incredible”, “Life-changing”, or “Unbelievable”. How can you transform the best four months of your life into a single sentence. The issue is that it is impossible and for that reason I am so grateful to have my BC Gringos… the only group of people on this earth who will ever fully understand.

I imagine that when I get on that flight in a couple of hours and return home, I will look back on this experience and it will all seem like a dream, like it never actually occurred. When your life changes that instantaneously, one must compartmentalize and, as a result, begin to separate the places in which they have lived. While I must move onto the next chapter in my life I will take with me the lessons that I have learned here in South America. I am coming home with not only amazing memories but also, a new outlook on life. I have become more cultured and appreciative of every opportunity that life has provided for me. I have become more spontaneous and less worrisome about the little things. I have gained more confidence with español, which I am excited to continue practicing while in Spain. And, finally, not to sound too cheesy, but I have had the privilege of spending the last four months with the same 12 gringos. While this may sound frustrating to some, sharing these once in a lifetime experiences with a group of such talented, passionate, intelligent, and hysterically funny people made the experience what it was. Every one of the twelve was completely different, but we are leaving Ecuador today with something important in common… a love for Ecuador and a love for each other. They have been my family and support system here and I am forever grateful.

But, it’s finally over. My bags are all packed, my cornrows from the beach have been removed from my hair, the tan is starting to fade, and I have already said my final goodbyes to all of my friends. While I am so incredibly sad and nervous to leave, I cannot wait to see my family, all four of them, waiting for me at the airport in New York tonight. Because, after all, perhaps the most important lesson that this experience has taught me is that life will always change… I will continue seeing new parts of the world, will be graduating in a year and a half, may move to a new part of the country, and will (hopefully) receive a great job offer. My friends and surroundings will constantly change as well as my hobbies and interests. However, the one thing that will always keep me motivated, the one group of people that will always challenge me to be the best version of myself, is my family… the people that I love more than anyone in this world.

To conclude this South American blog I would like to quote the literary genius of Dr. Seuss who once wrote, “You have brains in your head, you have feet in your shoes. You can steer yourself in any direction you choose. You’re on your own and you know what you know. And you are the guy who’ll decide where to go. You’ll be on your way up! You’ll be seeing great sights! You’ll join the high fliers who soar to high heights. And when you're alone, there's a very good chance you'll meet things that scare you right out of your pants. There are some, down the road between hither and yon, that can scare you so much you won't want to go on. And will you succeed?

Yes! You will, indeed! (98 and 3/4 percent guaranteed.)”- Oh the Places You’ll Go

Quito, Ecuador

Las Islas Galápagos

Voluntariado a la Macarena

Mindo, Ecuador

Experiencia Rural... Santa Barbara, Ecuador

Baños, Ecuador

Isla del Sol, Bolivia

Machu Picchu, Perú

Canoa, Ecuador

La Ruta del Sol: Puerto Lopez, Los Frailes, Montañita

I could not have imagined a better way to spend finals week in Ecuador than by relaxing on the coastal beaches along La Ruta del Sol. Not only was it a week of relaxation, amazing sights, ceviche, and maracuyá, it was also my opportunity to return back to the states tanner than anyone reading this blog... muoohahaha.

Our first stop after our 8 hour bus ride on Tuesday night was Puerto Lopez. We got in around 5AM where we were greeted by some Ecuaman who I am pretty sure stalked us for the rest of our stay in Puerto Lopez. Everywhere we went this man would mysteriously pop-up. Anyways, he showed us to a good hostel where we stayed for the remainder of our time in PL. The first day was pretty tranquila... we all relaxed on the beach, ate some good fish ceviche, played some beach volleyball and then headed to Puerto Rico, a smaller neighbor town where Colleen lived for two months this summer. The town was incredibly impoverished and Colleen's room was similar to a tiny windowless cell without any dressers. However, if you walked down the road it led you to an incredibly secluded beach where we watched the sunset. In the pictures below you can see how complex and diverse this town was!

The next day Nate arrived!!! We all woke up early, had some waffles and eggs, and headed to Los Frailes which is considered to be the nicest beach in Ecuador. We did a 45 minute hike to get there but it was completely worth it because there was no one else on the entire beach. We passed the day relaxing, playing in the water, trying to build a huge sand hole, etc. Waking up from a nap on the beach, opening my eyes to see clear blue water and huge cliffs, feeling the sand between my toes, and thinking of all of the BC kids slaving away in Oneill and Bapst made me a very happy camper.

Los Frailes

The group!

That night, unfortunately, Colleen and Nate had to leave to head back to Quito for finals. The five of us, Tori, Kasia, Pat, Nate, and I played Eukre in the hostel and passed out. The next morning we got on a bus to Montañita, which would quickly become my favorite Ecuadorian town. I know I said this about Canoa, but, if I was to move to Ecuador I would, without a doubt, move to Montañita. Right when we walked into the town I knew I was going to stay an extra day because I simply fell in love. 

We headed straight to the beach where Pat and I got our hair braided for 8 dollars (as opposed to 45 in the states). We spent the rest of the day relaxing on the beach, throwing around the football, and just enjoying Montañita. Nate, Tori, and Kasia headed out to be back for finals so Pat and I decided to stay. We had the best dinner at this restaurant where you ate on beds... there were no chairs... it was awesome. We met up with Crystal and Ariana to go out that night. We had the best drinks made from maracuyá, piña, y fresa but called it an early night because we were so wiped out from traveling. 

Our favorite restaurant!

The last day of our beach trip was, again, filled with relaxation, relaxation, and more relaxation. Pat and I ate pancakes and french toast at the same restaurant with the beds the next morning and then headed to the beach. The sun was so strong that after a few hours we had to flee the beach to find some shade, pack up, and head back to PL to catch our bus back to Quito. 

How to describe Montañita: pregnant ladies selling weed brownies on the streets, fathers with bong stands selling their pieces with one hand and holding their 2 year old daughters in the other, everyone has either half shaved heads or dredlocks, many American hippies move there and make a living by selling empanadas or jewelry on the streets, Bob Marley music blasting, topless skinny hippie chicks, longboards... the coolest place for people watching I have ever witnessed. Paradise. 

Montañita!

The Amazon Rainforest

During our international student welcome orientation we were advised that each and every one of us would most likely become very sick during our time in Ecuador. Jessie, thinking she is invincible, refused to believe the debauchery that was coming from the mouths of the USFQ officials. 3 and a half months in, after eating all of the street food I could find, sharing drinks, etc... I was still untouchable. That was of course until last Thursday night which, will go down in my ecuahistory as being the worst night of my study abroad experience. I will spare you the worser details but let's just say I vomited 5 separate times between the hours of 10pm-3:30am. What was worrying me was the frightening thought that my sickness would inhibit my ability to accompany the BC Gringos on our weekend trip to the Amazon Rainforest. Although I had 4 final projects that had to be done, as well as a VISA meeting at the consulate, I made the decision to stay in bed all day which, paid off as I was able to spend the weekend in the selva!

We spent most of the first day traveling to the selva. After about a 5 hour bus ride to some tiny little town, we ate lunch (correction: everyone else ate lunch because I didn't have an appetite for another 3 days or so), and headed on this boat down the Napo river for two hours to our hostel. While on the boat, Colleen and I devised an entire book series which, regardless of the fact that I am a dreamer and not a realist, I honestly believe could become the next Harry Potter or Hunger Games... the book series will be famous one day so get ready. When we finally got there we relaxed on some hammocks for a long time which was much needed. After dinner everyone went on a night hike that I chose to skip because I was still exhausted and sick. Unfortunately, that night at around 4:30AM, right before I finally got to bed, I vomited once more. This vom was a particularly tricky vom on the account of there being no lighting units whatsoever in the selva. So there I am, at 4:30AM in the middle of the Amazon, trying not to wake up all of the girls in my cabin yet, unable to find the door to the bathroom. I wish this was a lie but, I was fairly certain for a moment that I was going to have to vom on one of the girls because I was completely blinded.

The next day was hands down the best day in the selva. We visited an amazonian village in the middle of the jungle where they taught us about their crops, cooked for us, and showed us some of their traditions. We were able to bring them a lot a lot of food which was great but I felt a little too much of the "Jesus Complex" while we were there. Ya know, the civilized white university students showering the impoverished with food... Anyways, they then cooked their traditional jungle food for us which involved larvae.. yes, I tried larvae... and no, I couldn't quite get it down. We then got jungle paint on our faces, feathers in our hair, and learned how to shoot blow darts. Toryn and I were the only ones who shot the dart through the fruit!

We then headed back for lunch and a little relaxation at the hostel before heading back to the Napo river to construct our own raft out of logs and rope. While I will admit, the guide and the boys did most of the work, I still found it really cool to say we were floating through the Amazon Jungle on a raft that we made. While on the raft everyone was pushing each other off and the current was really strong so it was really fun to just let the river take you. We also saw one of the most beautiful sunsets while floating on the river.

After dinner that night we were visited by a Shaman who, we were told, would cleanse the devil spirits from some of us. Four of us had little "sessions" with the Shaman which included sitting in a chair across from him and having him so a series of things. First, he would make all of these weird noises and wooshing sounds and would graze your face and shoulders with this leaf wand stick things (bad description, I know). Afterwords, he would smoke from some cigar and take your scalp and blow the smoke into your head. Things started to get a little weird when he appeared to be dry heaving (vom sounds) and would then blow the good spirits into your scalp. Of the four that participated (Me, Pat, Jon, and Toryn), Pat and I were told that we had bad spirits that he needed to release. It was a very... strange experience but definitely one I will never forget.

The next morning the group did a four hour hike but Beth and I, who had been sick that week, decided to stay back and rest more. This kind of thing is so unlike me but I just didn't have the energy. It was a great decision, however, and we napped in our beds and on the hammocks for four hours. After lunch we did about an hour hike/boat ride to this little village where women make pottery. Not gonna lie, very anticlimactic, but hiking through the jungle during the night was really cool. That night, Colleen, Toryn, Pat and I stayed up late playing Yukur, a game that I learned while in Nicaragua with Arrupe. Pat and I dominated which always makes the game more fun.

The last day we visited an animal preserve where we got to see monkeys, cheetahs, birds, crocs, and some animal that looked like a guinea pig on steroids. Our guide was one creepy looking cat.. I don't even know how to begin to describe it but, we collectively realized that all accents are sexy to girls except for chinese and german accents... I think this is true. Afterwards, we took the boat back to the mainland, then took a five hour bus back home. Pat and I played the Newlywed Game against Beth and Casey... we kicked ass but no, for the record everyone... we're not dating (just to end all of the speculations).

As I write this I cannot believe I have a week and a half left in Ecuador... tempus fugit.

Canoa, Ecuador: Spear the Conch, Spread the Gnar

While missing Thanksgiving in the States was definitely very difficult, especially after an hour-long Skype conversation with my entire extended family, it was definitely made better by our weekend in Canoa. Ecuador is a fascinating country because, although it is tiny, it is made up of four very distinct regions: the sierra, the jungle, the coast, and the Galápagos. As someone who has grown up living on the beach her entire life, the one thing I wish Boston College had was closer access to the shore. However, here in Ecuador, the coast is just an overnight bus ride away.

Thanks to my lack of Friday classes I was able to leave on Thanksgiving night to take a bus to Canoa with Pat, Tim, and Seth. The bus ride was about 6 hours and we arrived at around 4AM. Our hostel had a really cool vibe to it and was right next to the beach… I am not sure I could accurately describe this coastal Ecuadorian beach town… it was something you had to see for yourself. However, without a doubt, if I had to move to Ecuador for a period of time, it would be to Canoa. It has that small town feel that I miss about Locust Valley, no one has a care in the world, the weather was beautiful, and the beach was fantastic.

-Our Hostel-

The first day we relaxed a lot on the beach, Seth and Tim went exploring for a while and returned with the most God-awful 10 dollar shell/bead necklaces that they were forced to buy from some rando. At around 3PM, after eating lunch, we rented surfboards. I had not been surfing in a while so I was nervous about getting up but within about 30 minutes I was catching every wave. For the rest of the weekend every time we surfed we all spoke about catching the gnar and feelin’ the swell, bra.

That night the four of us watched the sunset, went to dinner and had some of the best food I have eaten all semester, however, the owner of the restaurant was the creepiest mofo I have ever met and kept making the most random remarks to us.  The next morning Kasia, Toryn, and Colleen came! We all had a huge breakfast at the surf shop and then headed out for a full day of the swell. I got up basically every time which, made surfing a lot of fun for me. By the end of the day, the waves were vicious and we were all being completely thrown around. Before dinner we had a little fun in the hostel and Pat and I found ourselves alone in the room marching in circles to “Hey, Soul Sister”. Again, many of these references won’t make any sense to anyone reading it but it is for my own memory that I write them. That dinner was hands down one of the funniest dinners I have ever experienced. Spear the conch and spread the gnar. I will leave it at that.

The next day was our last day at the coast and a relaxing one at that. We played some beach tackle football and surfed a little more. Right before dinner we found a bat that we named Samuel, dead, lying outside of our door. We thought it would be funny to play with the bat and take pictures with him. When it came time to eat dinner I had the brilliant idea of putting Samuel in a cup, in a plastic bag and bringing him back to Quito as a practical joke. The next day in school Colleen opened her backpack in Amanda’s class to find a dead Samuel resting atop her books. All in all, very successful trip to the beach. The weekend was absolutely amazing and reminded me how much I miss the beach. I cannot wait for our 6 day beach trip right before we leave!!!

-Samuel-

Random Happenings Since Perú and Bolivia

Since I have not blogged in a while I will try to sum up the highlights the past couple of weeks since my return from Perú and Bolivia. In no particular order:

1) Amaru Cholango Indigenous Art Exhibit: photography, sculptures, videos, poetry, etc... first time I ever went to a museum alone... incredibly interesting.

2) Ecuadorian Darty? Yes, Patricio and I went to what we thought was going to be a Saturday rager but turned into a two hour commute to a country club of doom. Let's just say the country club looked more like a backyard of an impoverished New Jersey suburb and the only guy we knew there weeped like a small child for a good hour or so after his girlfriend broke up with him mid-darty.

3) Centro Historico View: as a required program event the BC Gringos did a night walking tour of the Centro Historico. While I am sure the information was rich in culture I could not stop staring at the outfit that our tour guide was wearing, who was trying to impersonate either Zoro or Captain Morgan... either or. The highlight, however, of this outing was crawling through the walls of a very old church, lit only by candlelight, and eventually arriving to the top of the church and seeing the most beautiful view of Quito that I have ever seen.

4) Indigenous Ballet: two weeks ago today we had the pleasure of seeing an indigenous ballet performance. I would not quite call it ballet... the style was truly unique, the music was great, and we were invited on stage to dance mid-performance!

5) Thanksgiving in Quito: while it was definitely difficult to be away from home for thanksgiving, I will admit that the thanksgiving dinner we ate was phenomenal. We went to Adam's Rib (perhaps the most American named restaurant in Quito) with the entire group, Amanda, Bonnie, Andrea, Mark, and the parents of Beth, Nate, and Tori. Perhaps the only thing I missed more than mom's mashed potatoes, however, was not going 12AM Black Friday Shopping with my sister, Melissa, like we do every year.

6) Skyping with my big italian family on turkey day: while I don't consider myself to be an outwardly emotional person, there is something so overwhelming about turning on your skype camera and seeing a herd of family members crowding around. I can say, with confidence, that my family, no matter how crazy or atypical they are, is absolutely incredible and always supportive. Perhaps it takes being away from home for an extended period of time to realize that. Also, I never thought it would be my brother to be the reason why I burst out into overwhelmed tears but, then again, I had not spoken to him since August 14th. I am so excited to go home in three weeks and see everyone!

7) Receiving the cutest thanksgiving card from my mom and sister.

8) My last day at the Macarena: today was my last day volunteering at the Macarena. Although Pat and I decided we would attend their performances on Friday, today was our last day working in the classrooms. I will certainly miss having the kids crawl all over me... I will miss Erick, Pamela, Jefferson, and Amelia (favoritism exists... sorry). The experience was absolutely incredible and one that I will certainly carry with me forever.

Machu Picchu!!!

The only thing that could ever possibly wake me up at 3:00AM besides mashed potatoes and gravy or Adam Levine himself would be MACHU PICCHU!!! After eating one pancake and tea we found ourselves sprinting to the next checkpoint. This checkpoint was the most important because if we made it there the two other groups we would be the first to enter Machu Picchu that morning! Luckily our company, United Mice, is the shiznit and we were the first ones at the entrance at around 3:45. We had to wait until 5:00AM for the gates to open but from that point on it was pure adrenaline. There we are, 13 United Mice from the age of 20-60 dashing full sprint through the darkness as backpackers from other companies are trying to pass us. No pee breaks, no water breaks, just Piznit on our minds. The race became intense as Kevin told one speedy backpacker that he was an asshole (good thing we saw him the next day at the airport). After what they call the Gringo Killers, a series of crazy steep stairs that seem to go on forever) we had finally made it to the Sun Gate... where we were able to see absolutely nothing because of the fog. But, it could have been raining so I was not about to complain.

We started our descent down into Machu Picchu and when that “postcard” picture of the ruins was finally in sight a feeling of absolute joy and amazement came over me. Literally 20 minutes into our descent the skies cleared and we were given the most beautiful sunny day that I could have imagined. During times like that I question why I am atheist because it was an absolute miracle. We had a two-hour tour of Machu Picchu from our guide Sol. The precision of the stone- work is impeccable… you can’t even fit a coin through the stones because of how precise their building techniques were. The Incans were also known for being hydraulic geniuses. For a civilization to form up in the mountains is quite unknown because of the lack of water source however the Incans mastered the use of mountain rain water through canals/pipes that are still working today and were able to use the mountains as a form of protection!

After the tour we had about 2 hours of free time so we checked out the ancient Incan bridge which, not going to lie, was highly anticlimactic. I was anticipating a beautiful, dangerous, old drawbridge where tourists could enter at their own risk… what we got was a plank of wood connecting two very close boulder ledges. The thing that I will admit was cool, however, was the Incan use of removable bridges. When they needed to pass they would use the bridge and then take the platform with them as they went so that others could not cross. I found it very intriguing and typical South American that on the way to the bridge we had to walk on the side of cliffs hundreds maybe thousands of feet up and there were no safety precautions. It would have been very easy for someone to fall off the edge to his or her death.

Afterwards, the other three began an hour hike to Aguas Calientes which Pat and I were having none of. After a 4 day hike, Machu Picchu was the reward, the culmination of all of my hard work… you could not have paid me 200 dollars in that moment to hike down to Aguas Calientes. Instead, Pat and I relaxed on a terrace by the ruins for a good hour… best decision of my life. Well, until we met a guy who kept taking pictures of us because we were “muy lindo”… this was the same guy who proceeded to tell us that he was a billionaire who now had 700 dollars in his bank account. I think he may have had some social problems but he asked Pat if he was Jewish, told me I was Hispanic, and then asked a random Asian girl what her nationality was… it was strange. He then told us that he wanted to take the train back with us. Thankfully, there was a llama walking by us and the man got distracted at which point Pat and I bolted.

After eating lunch in Aguas Calientes with the group we all got on a train that very much reminded me of Disney World (not sure I can explain why… maybe it was the soothing music). The views from the train were incredible and once we had arrived back at the start point I was shocked at how far we had walked (an hour and a half train ride)! After a train we took a 3 hour bus ride back to Cusco where we had to say goodbye to all of our friends from the Inca Trail which was really sad. There is something so personal about sharing an experience like the Inca Trail with strangers. I am not sure if it is the lack of hygiene, collective pain, or passion that united us all on the trail but they are truly a group of people I will never forget. While I am certainly an outdoorsy kind of person, I was not prepared for how difficult the Inca Trail would be. However, it was a once in a lifetime opportunity that I will never forget. 

Inca Trail: Day Three

View from my tent Day 3!!!

Day Three was definitely much easier and more enjoyable than the first two days. The hike was beautiful, it was not raining, and we made it to camp-site by 1:00PM! After eating lunch we had the rest of the day to ourselves so we went to Wiñyawayna Ruins, which can be best described as a mini Machu Picchu. There were terraces which were used for agricultural purposes, similar to Machu Picchu, and a mini town where people lived. We spent a lot of time around the ruins taking fun pictures and just enjoying how absolutely breathtaking it was. It was definitely a good preparation for the big Pizzle the next day.

Just casually planking some Inca Ruins

The others decided to go check out some other ruins but it was the first opportunity for us to use any sort of bathing water (and by that I mean a sink) so I had to take the opportunity to clean out my disgusting hair. Pat and I washed each others hair… true story… and changed our clothes, which felt lovely. Afterwards, I had to shoot some photos for my photography class so Pat and I returned to Wiñyawayna and he was my model. For the first couple of shots I told him that I needed him to act sexy and lean against the wall with an apple in his mouth… this was all, of course, a joke and for my own personal enjoyment but out of it came the brilliant picture below. Afterwards we ate dinner and headed straight to bed because we had to wake up at 3:00AM the next morning for Machu Picchu!!!

Inca Trail: Day Two

Day Two began with an incredible view and room service… yes, we had coffee, tea, and hot chocolate brought to our tents which, was just what I needed after a cold, restless night during which I apparently cuddled up on my British tent-mate… woops? During the first leg of our journey the sun was shining and I enjoyed a long conversation with our guide Sol. After about two hours we summated Dead Woman’s Pass, which was the highest point on the trail. To celebrate Sol brought out a bottle of Rum. On the way down the rain began which resulted in me wiping out three times and really hurting my hand. Lunch was spectacular as usual and we drink tea before and after every meal, which is a habit I would love to continue.

The view from my tent!

After lunch we had another uphill pass to complete and we had opportunities to see ancient Inca ruins along the way.  While the group was looking at some ruins I took it upon myself to climb 5 more minutes up to do my business in some grass. While mid-business a group of 5 porters (the men who carry our tents and make our food) were approaching and there was absolutely nothing that I could do but fake being dead and lay in the grass next to the evidence of my activities. It was incredibly awkward and I am 100% certain that the porters saw the mentally challenged girl lying in the grass with her butt out next to her own little present. It was horrifying.

DAY TWO!!!

When we finally hit our second summit of the day the rain was falling so hard but there was no tree coverage. The group was required to wait for everyone to summit before continuing down the mountain… which meant all of us had to wait for about 45 minutes in the pouring rain huddled up in little balls. Luckily we found a cave about 30 minutes in and took cover. On the way back down the sun came out for what seemed like the first time in days and I was able to pop my iPod in and jam out to my Ecuafaves playlist. The end of day 2 took us to a different set of ancient ruins that looked over the river valley… it was beautiful and really incredible to have the opportunity to have an Inca history lesson in this remote place. We learned that there are many other Inca remains that the local Peruvians know about but refuse to share with the public. We also learned that the grueling path that took us 4 days to complete was finished in 3 ½ hours by an indigenous Peruvian years prior during a race.

Once we reached campsite we were finally introduced to all of the porters (some of whom were 65 years old) and enjoyed dinner and a much better night’s sleep!

Inca Trail: Day One

Within the first two weeks of arriving in Ecuador a group of us got together and planned our once in a lifetime trip to Machu Picchu. This trip consisted of a four-day backpacking trip through the Inca Trail in which we would arrive to the famous ruins on the fourth day. After months of planning and anticipation the day had finally arrived.

We were picked up at our hotel, Yamanyá Backpackers, at 4:00AM and as we entered the bus we were greeted by the faces of fellow backpackers with whom we would be spending the next four days. It took us about three minutes to realize that we were not only the only Americans but also, the youngest backpackers on the trip, hands down. The two-hour bus ride took us to a tiny deserted town where I enjoyed banana chocolate chip pancakes, and ham and cheese omelets in hopes of fattening up for the long trek… little did I know we would eat like kings during the hike. Once we arrived at km82 we strapped on our 25 pound backpacks, sleeping mats and bags, etc and began our trek through the historic Inca Trail.

Three words to describe day one: pain, misery, and accomplishment. When I signed up for this 4 day backpacking trip I was not aware of how difficult the trek would be. While, in my defense, the first day was the longest and toughest day, anyone of my BC guys knows that I was not a happy camper (pun intended). When we arrived at lunch I sat by a woman named Brienne from the UK who has been traveling around the world for the past four years. Her lifestyle fascinated me, which was made obvious through the thousands of questions I had for her. She was living the life I had always dreamed of… that was until Kevin (the wise soul he is) made me contemplate why Brienne is always traveling. The concept of Brienne running from something or never being able to commit was a thought I reflected upon for a large portion of the trip. I realized that the fear of failure after graduation was a large contributing factor towards my appeal of traveling the world. Being able to admit this to myself really guided my thoughts regarding my future throughout the rest of the hike.

After lunch we started what I consider God’s way of punishing me for being an Atheist because there is no way that man has the power to chastise an innocent soul in such a powerful way. The second leg of day one was an uphill, stair intensive, journey through what not resonates in my mind as hell on earth. Imagine climbing uneven stairs for three and a half hours in the pouring rain with skinny jeans on an 25 pounds on your back. Writing this reflection about this day almost gets me frustrated because there is no way to accurately describe the mental punishment of turning another corner to find that the campsite you hoped would be there was nothing more than another grueling set of inclined rocks. Had I not had Dave, Amos, and Damien on my iPod I don’t think I would have made it to the top of that mountain until jetpacks were commercially sold.

When I finally arrived at our first overnight campsite, a sense of pure achievement and joy overtook my body.  Despite the events just described the BC Gringos were among the first to reach the top where we passed the time by throwing around the football that Pat brought. Once everyone had arrived, an hour and fifteen minutes later, we drank hot tea and enjoyed our first dinner together. Rob and Emma, the newlyweds from our group, taught us a plethora of slang British phrases like “right minger” which is a bad hookup, “Did you pull last night” which means “did you get with anyone last night”, “and “I’m going for a Gypsies” which means I am going to pee.  After dinner we all went back to our tents and passed out by 8:00PM.

Perú: Las Islas Flotantes, Puno, Cuzco, and Lima (After Incan Trail)

This is the fun part of my blog where I get to tell you all about my detainment at the Peruvian/Bolivian border and how, as illegals, we convinced border patrol to accept our bribe and issue false government stamps in our passports. Well, I think that about sums it up. If you ask the Bolivian government, we were never in their country... if you ask our passports... we left Perú for three days and simply disappeared. I have a feeling this is a story I will be telling for a long time...

After finally escaping the custody of the Peruvian border patrol we were on our way for a five hour bus ride to Puno, Perú. Part of me wishes I had taken pictures of that which I had seen driving for those four hours but part of me is happy that the memory of that bus ride only lives within my mind. With my iPod whispering the soft tunes of Amos Lee and Damien Rice, I couldn't help but feel such complete peace with the world during those four hours. It was the first time, in a long time, that I was left with my thoughts... left to contemplate... left to reflect. I have learned a lot about myself during this South American journey and I can't wait to continue this amazing year.

When we arrived to Puno we knew our time was limited so we wasted no time and hopped on the first boat to Las Islas Flotantes (Floating Islands) which are home to the Uros Tribe who began constructing these manmade islands hundreds of years ago. These people had wished to protect themselves from invasions and the conflicts on the mainland so decided to make their own floating islands out of reed and start their own community which they could move whenever they needed to. There are 44 islands all together that are home to markets, living spaces, schools, etc. We also learned how to say hello "how are you" (Kami saraki) and "im doing well" (waliki) in their native language of Aymara. Having the opportunity to explore these incredible islands was completely last minute yet, perhaps, one of the highlights of the entire trip. They were unlike anything I have ever seen before and definitely the most remote location I have ever visited.

(My Favorite Shot of the Entire Trip... 2 Uros Girls on a Reed Boat)

After our boat ride back to Puno we ate at this delicious restaurant where we ate traditional Peruvian dishes like Lomo Saltado y Alpaca. Unfortunately we didn't spend too much time in Puno because we had to get on another overnight buscama back to Cuzco. In the middle of the night (12AM exactly) we all surprised Kevin with a piece of chocolate cake and sang Happy Birthday to him! What followed was a good 4 hours of trying to fall asleep in the fiery inferno that was the oven buscama we were traveling in. Note to travelers: buscamas are either 10 degrees below zero or 1000 degrees... layers are key.

We arrived in Cuzco at 3:45 in the morning where we were ripped off by a taxi driver who charged us about 10 times what the normal fee was but we had no other option. When we arrived at our hostel we were overjoyed to feel the beds which were more comfortable than any bed I have slept in in months. We all passed out right away because we had to wake up for a pre-trip debriefing with United Mice, the company with whom we would be completing the Inca Trail. We all had a relaxing day because we wanted to rest up for our 4 day adventure but enjoyed Kevin's birthday to the fullest! We all went out for lunch in Cuzco and then did some shopping. Let's just say that the loved ones in my life are getting spoiled this Chrismas... I just can't stop buying things for them! In honor of Kevin's big day we all went to mass (Yes, the Atheist went to church) which was a good time to be alone with my thoughts. Afterwards a few beers at a British pub and then dinner. 

I will now skip to our day in Lima after the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu so I can devote a separate blog to that experience... After four days hiking the Inca Trail we all had one last dinner in Cuzco where we were all falling asleep at the table. It was a very early night for us but we knew we had a jam-packed day in Lima to look forward to. In the morning we ate breakfast and then headed to the airport where we ran into Rob and Emma (newlyweds from our Inca Trail Group). We landed in Lima midday and took a taxi to the heart of the city where we explored. Lima is a beautiful city, definitely not as beautiful as Cuzco but only because it reminded me more of a typical city in the states. We all ate one more typical Peruvian meal for lunch which consisted of the spiciest ceviche known to man and pollo saltado. Afterwards, we did a lot of relaxing in the park, shopping for more christmas presents, and then more relaxing outside of this beautiful church. There were hundreds of birds in the church courtyard and a woman selling feed so we bought a bag and enjoyed the beautiful weather. As Kevin put it, "there was no where else I would have rather been". That hour or so spent outside of the church made me realize that traveling is not always about sightseeing or museum tours... it is about feeling the energy of a city and simply relaxing.

I took a trip in 2007... a three week catamaran sailing voyage around the Leeward Islands with 12 other kids from around the world. When I got on the plane in St. Martin to return to the states I was sad not only to leave my friends, but, more so, because I was convinced that those three weeks spent living on a catamaran, sleeping under the stars on a hammock every night would encapsulate the best trip of my entire life. Scuba Diving every day, sailing, wake boarding... how could you beat it? While I was more than grateful for the experience I had believed that as a 16 year old I had already completed the greatest adventure that life had to offer me... it was not until this trip that I realized how much more was out there waiting...

Bolivia: Isla del Sol and Copacabana

After a night of sleeping in the airport most people look forward to catching some Z's in a bed... in our case... a buscama... A bus full of recliner chairs that you should be able to sleep on (should being the operative word). However, the combination of the frigid air and the 200 pound indigenous grandma backing her tush up into me, throughout the night, resulted in what I would consider a less than pleasant sleep. At some point the next morning when I was dozing and and out I heard the bus driver say "Copacabana". I quickly opened my eyes to notice that the four boys were fast asleep. In somewhat of a mad rash I awoke the slumberous cherubs and we quickly excited the buscama, realizing that had I not been such a light sleeper we would have ended up in the middle of nowhere. Oh wait, we did anyway. When the bus pulled away it revealed a landscape that was, for lack of a better term, confusing. We were not at a bus station, we were not in a town, we were in the middle of a dusty desert in Perú where nothing could be seen for miles... except the two white sketchy vans full of indigenous Peruvians that became our only escape option.

While in these questionable vehicles that would be perceived as pedophile vans in the States, we met a woman who asked if we would like to enter the country legally or illegally. Fact. U.S citizens have to pay $135.00 to enter Bolivia because their government and just about everyone else in the country hates Americans. While I can't say we entered the country through a sewage pipe or hidden in a trunk of a car (although that would have been epic), I also can't say we entered the country legally. When the BC Gringos arrived at the Peruvian/Bolivian border (pictured below) we decided to present our Ecuadorian Residency cards in place of our passports. I mean, how strict could their border patrol be when their border was comprised of a rusty chain that didn't cover the entirety of the road? Once Perú allowed us to leave their country with our Censos we made our way to the Bolivian office where we were greeted by a man who hated America so much you could have sworn he was the illegitimate child of Osama Bin Laden and Fidel Castro. After a 20 minute screaming match he accepted our collective bribe of $100 and allowed us to enter. 

Once we finally arrived to Copacabana, Bolivia we bought our boat tickets to Isla del Sol and then relaxed and had lunch by the water. It's crazy that a week before we had no plans of visiting Bolivia at all but, there we were, illegals ordering trout by the waterside. Life is good. At 1PM we took an hour long boat ride from Copacabana to Isla del Sol which is located in Lake Titicaca, the highest freshwater lake in the world. While on the boat, I had my feet up leaning against the window sill until a grouchy Bolivian told me that I was not on vacation and ordered me to sit properly. Last time I checked, I was on vacation but that's besides the point. Point is... Bolivian people really do not like Americans and Jessie really does not like Bolivian people. Pictured Below: Copacabana

When we arrived to Isla del Sol we rented a mule to carry our bags up the mountain which was literally an hour trek of doom in the blazing sun. This arduous task was completely made worth it when we arrived at Inti Kala, our hotel. The view from our porch was absolutely indescribable and, hands down, the most beautiful view from a hotel room I plan on ever seeing in my life (the picture below does not do it justice). Isla del Sol has no paved roads, no cars, no street lights, no nothing. It is quaint, hidden, and unbelievably beautiful. The island is self-sustainable and, for that reason, there was not a lot of variety between restaurants. By that I mean you were either eating, trout, meat, pasta that tasted like ketchup, or Pizza. When the sun faded, we hiked up to the highest point with flashlights, looked over the lake, and felt the sheer isolation of this incredible island that days before we didn't know existed. 

The next day was Halloween! None of us, however, realized until about noon. We woke up at the god awful hour of 6AM to eat breakfast and meet Efrane, a Bolivian who took us on his boat from Isla del Sol to Isla de la Luna an adjacent island home to 50 people. When we arrived he showed us the trail and told us that it would lead to Inca Ruins. The island is believed, by the Bolivians, to be the birthplace of the Inca civilization. The ruins were very interesting and it was nice to sit overlooking the mountain in complete silence, left with our thoughts. Note: if you ever consider taking a picture of a mule or sheep in Bolivia... DON'T... someone will be standing behind you asking for payment afterwards.

We then got back on the boat and enjoyed a ride on top through the sunny Bolivian waters towards the North Side of the island where we ate lunch. Shortly after we set out on a four hour hike from the North towards the South of the island where our hotel was located. While I was not particularly jumping for joy at the thought of a hike days before a 4-day hike through Perú, I can say with confidence that this day turned out to be my favorite of the entire trip and the beautiful scenery and deep conversations that filled the afternoon had a lot to do with it. At every corner the island became more beautiful and by the time we had reached our hotel I found myself yearning for more. 

That night, after dinner, we had a brilliant idea that I, unfortunately, cannot write about on a public forum... and I suppose I will leave it at that. However, the next morning we woke up early, had our last breakfast, and completed an hour hike with our bags to some other Inca Ruins where we were picked up by good old Efrane and his brother on their boat. After a 45 minute boat ride we were back on mainland, Copacabana. After another harborside lunch we boarded a bus to Puno, Perú. The last memory I will have of Bolivia was the public toilet flushing system which involves filling up a bucket of water and manually draining the toilet as flies swarm your body. Well, I guess that would have been the last memory had we not been detained at the border... for that story please refer to my next blog post.